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Bistro SK offers a departure from the seafood centric dining typical of City Island.

On an island that more closely resembles Martha’s Vineyard than the Bronx there is a treasure trove of nautically inspired eateries, lining City Island Avenue from stem to stern. Among them lies a pearl: Bistro SK, the Bronx’s only French restaurant.

Stephane Kane and Maria Caruso, husband and wife, are co-owners of Bistro SK, and both work their magic in the front of the house. Maria adds thoughtful touches like fresh flowers, a basket of reading glasses for those who left home without them, an array of colorful pashminas if you happen to be chilly and a warm smile for all—while Stephane flexes his well-polished skills as host, orchestrating the dining room like a seasoned conductor, never missing a beat.

The result is moody and romantic—perhaps the vibe is what carries you over the pond, more than anything. The restaurant is complete with a back courtyard, fit for al fresco dining—private, secluded, quiet. Of course, we have to mention the famous tree, saved from the previous restaurant (it was, after all, called The Tree House), which grows prominently inside the bistro scaling the dining room wall enclosed in glass, preserving what is known on the island as a landmark. Other than a few nautical accents, the restaurant doesn’t subscribe to its Island surroundings, “I want to be different than the other restaurants here. It’s all seafood. Me, I want to be my own identity,” says Stephane